The Skiers' Guide to Smugglers' Notch Resort

One of the first things you’ll notice when looking at a map of Vermont is that there’s an abundance of ski hills in its northwest corner. Big-name resorts like Stowe and Sugarbush, alongside lesser-known hills like Mad River Glen, Bolton Valley, and of course Smugglers Notch.

Smaller, less developed hills, like Smugglers Notch, are core to the Vermont skiing experience. They’re not cluttered with amenities, the lifts aren’t as fast as some big-name resorts, and it’s why Smuggs is where the locals go when they want a fun day in the powder.

Though this is still New England, so powder is stretching the truth a good portion of the season. The snow is often an icy crust. That’s part of the experience and, having conquered it, you’ll be a better skier.

Smugglers Notch is actually three mountains - Madonna, Morse, and Sterling. Morse is the most beginner-friendly of the trio, with nothing but greens and a few easy blues that’ll help you level up. Sterling and Madonna are an entirely different ball game though. Sterling features some of the more intermediate terrain and some solid glade runs. Madonna, though, is where you’ll find the resort’s most intense trails like Freefall and Black Hole - steep double and triple black diamonds through the trees.

What really sets Smuggs apart from other area resorts though is the atmosphere. It’s less than an hour from Burlington, one of the crunchiest college towns in America, which helps Smuggs maintain the ski bum ethos that’s gone missing from so many resorts as they’re gobbled about by conglomerates. Smuggs commitment to the locals is most evident in the Bash Badge program (sold for between $139-169), which allows frequent visitors to snag lift tickets for just $30, making it one of the most affordable options in the region.

Though the lifts at Smugglers Notch may not be state-of-the-art, that’s part of what makes it special. The relatively smaller crowds mean you’ll spend less time waiting in line and more time enjoying the slopes, even if the lift isn’t all that fast. It’s a relaxed atmosphere and your legs will actually appreciate some downtime on the lift.

For a quick bite to eat in between trails, the base lodge will do you just fine. It’s a lot of hot dogs and fries, but enough to power you through a few more hours of shredding. Located in the heart of the resort though, is the Morse Mountain Grill; a cozy spot to grab a good meal after a big day on the slopes. The menu is a mix of comfort foods, like juicy burgers and hearty soups, that’ll revitalize after all those runs.

If you’re looking for something a bit more upscale, Hearth and Candle delivers. This charming restaurant provides a more intimate dining experience with a focus on locally sourced ingredients. Their craft cocktails and creative dishes make it a must-visit for foodies.

It wouldn’t be a Vermont vacation without a trip to Ben & Jerry’s, and, fortunately, you need not make the journey down to their flagship store in Waterbury (though you should definitely make time for it if you can). They’ve got a scoop shop right at the resort, perfect for satisfying everyone’s sweet tooth.

It wouldn’t be a Vermont vacation without a trip to Ben & Jerry’s, and, fortunately, you need not make the journey down to their flagship store in Waterbury (though you should definitely make time for it if you can). They’ve got a scoop shop right at the resort, perfect for satisfying everyone’s sweet tooth.

If we’re being honest, Smuggs keeps things pretty low-key when it comes to apres; it’s not a mountain with multiple cocktail and wine bars. Lot Six Brewery is down the road in Jeffersonville, and it offers a relaxed vibe and rotating selection of brews that are enough to keep weary skiers and boarders happy after a long day.

For a great selection of libations, head back into Burlington, where you’ll find a few wineries, a couple of distilleries, and an embarrassment of riches when it comes to breweries. Vermont leads the nation in breweries per capita, so if you can’t find something here that tickles your fancy, that’s a “you” problem.

Chat up anyone in the Burlington area and they’ll tell you all about how they learned to ski at Smuggs. Not only is it considerably cheaper than nearby Stowe, but it’s also more family-focused with an award-winning ski school and designated “kids-only” zones on the mountain. If the little ones aren’t old enough to get out on the mountain, there’s also an on-site daycare center.

Activities for Non-Skiers at Smugglers Notch

Not every day of your ski vacation needs to be spent on the slopes and not everyone in your party will even want to strap on a pair. Fortunately, Smuggler’s Notch has plenty to enjoy when you’re not shredding the powder.

One of the best ways to start the day is with a yoga class at Smugglers Notch Resort. Classes are designed to be easy enough for novices while giving a deep stretch for those sore skiing muscles. They're also early enough that skiers and boarders can take a class before hitting the slopes.

If downhill isn’t your bag or you just need a break from the lift lines, consider cross-country skiing some of the beautiful trails traversing the surrounding Mount Mansfield State Forest. A pair of snowshoes can also take you to the top of the forest’s namesake mountain - the tallest peak in Vermont. Rentals are available from the Nordic Ski and Snowshoe Adventure Center in Jeffersonville.

Families will love the wealth of kid’s entertainment at the Smugglers Notch Resort, with everything from educational science shows to karaoke nights to fire dancers. There are also a few shops near the resort and in Jeffersonville that are worth perusing, especially if you need a few Vermont vacation souvenirs - maple syrup being the obvious choice.

Smuggler’s Notch is just under an hour from Burlington, which is where you’d probably fly into if arriving by air. You’ll find accommodations at every price point there, from budget-friendly motels to boutique suites.

If you’d prefer to stay closer to the mountain though, Smugglers Notch Resort is only a couple of miles away and features generously-sized rooms with full kitchens and sofas. These rooms are considerably more expensive than what you’d find in Burlington though, so consider how much of your budget you want to put towards convenience.

Another option is the Smugglers Notch Inn, which is ten minutes from the lifts and has the more bucolic feel you’d expect of a small New England hotel. The rooms are charming and the common areas are a cozy space to chat with fellow skiers and travelers after a long day on the slopes.

This is Vermont after all, so it should come as no surprise that Smuggler’s Notch prioritizes sustainability. Their most important green initiative is their energy-conserving snowmaking operations in partnership with Efficiency Vermont. They’ve also implemented a curbside recycling program in their condo areas and work with wildlife biologists to assess the hill’s impact on species of concern, like black bears and the Bicknell’s thrush.

Pros:

• One of the most family-friendly hills in the East.
• Bash Badge lets you purchase $30 lift tickets.
• Focused on sustainability, as would be expected for crunchy Vermont.
• Still has an excellent ski-bum vibe, largely due to its proximity to Burlington.
• Plenty of activities for skiers and non-skiers alike.

Cons:

• Remote location. Smuggs is about an hour from Burlington VT, but almost four hours from Boston.
• Equipment isn’t as modern as some of Vermont’s more famous resorts.
• Not on IKON, EPIC, or Indy Pass.
• Snowfall is mediocre and conditions are consistently icy - like many East Coast hills.
• Most of the better apres options are back in Burlington.