The Skiers' Guide to St. Anton am Arlberg: Expert Analysis & Reviews

Known for its schnitzels, steins and tricky ski terrain, St Anton am Arlberg is a bucket-list winter sports holiday for many. There’s a consistently deep snowpack, which draws in the powderhounds year after year, and a world-renowned après scene that is both wild and wonderful. Sitting 1304m up in the Tyrolean Alps, it has been connected to the colossal ski area of Arlberg since the 2016/17 installation of four connecting gondolas, which takes riders over to neighbouring Lech and Zürs.

Referred to as the ‘cradle of Alpine skiing,’ the quaint Tyrolean village of St Anton was just another farming stronghold until 1880, when a Norwegian engineer was based here to consult on the construction of the Arlberg tunnel. It was the curious way he travelled to work that the villagers marvelled over, using two wooden planks strapped to his feet. However, it wasn’t until 1901 that the Ski Club Arlberg was founded and people were really convinced. Then, the son of a local cheesemaker went on to become the ‘Father of modern Day Skiing,’ Hannes Schnieder, born in Stuben am Arlberg, quickly progressed from an enthusiastic 13 year old watching someone ski for the first time, to the pioneer of the Arlberg technique. Innovative from the get-go, St Anton soon introduced a ski lift in 1937, The Galzigbahn, which still stands today (albeit slightly more developed) in all its impressive architectural glory.

Much of the resort also featured as the filming location for the 2011 film Chalet Girl, as well as a Jamiroquai music video and a handful of vintage ski films - today the main draws are the advanced-level skiing and lively après.

The Skiing in St. Anton

The fifth largest ski area in the world, Alberg caters to all riders. The Arlberg Card (which covers St. Anton, Lech, Zürs, Stuben and St. Christoph) grants access to 340km of ski runs between the altitudes of 1300m and 2800m. In short, riders of all abilities will have their needs met here.

In St Anton itself there’s 127km of pistes, reaching an altitude of 2650m. There’s skiing on both sides of the valley, which makes for great views and plenty of piste to explore. The grading is higher here, so what is marked as a black in France is actually more like a red here, which is why it’s not strictly recommended for beginners. That being said though, the runs closer to the village are more mellow, with learn-to-ski and family-orientated facilities based lower down in Nasserein. Plenty of members in the Snomad community have either learned here or visited as a beginner, so don’t let the general consensus put you off.

For experts, the aptly named Fang piste is the steepest, situated below Gampen. However, the off-piste riding is the real draw here, with marked but unpatrolled routes all over the map. If you’re looking to really get off the beaten track, there’s some famous lines down from the top of the Valluga gondola station, but be sure to get a guide if you’re hitting those.

If you want to rack up some serious ski miles, you can complete the Run of Fame, an 85km long ski circuit that takes you through the entire Arlberg region. You can begin from almost anywhere, but there are two official routes: South, from St. Anton/Rendl in the direction of Warth, or North, from Warth to St Anton.

Much of the resort is south facing, which means mornings can be icy and afternoons really chopped up or bumpy depending on the time in the season. Ultimately though, St Anton has a great reputation for fresh powder snow and also has a sophisticated snow-making system, so the conditions shouldn’t be too much of an issue at any point throughout the season.

Eating Out in St. Anton

The great part about St Anton being a world-renowned resort is that there’s plenty of choice when it comes to eating out, both on the mountain and in the town itself. There are plenty of huts on the slopes equipped with sun terraces and a choice of either self-service or a la carte arrangements, meaning you can stop during the day and refuel easily.

If you’ve booked a hotel, chances are that you’ll be on a half-board basis with your evening meal included, but if you want to sample some local cuisine, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Bodega Bar is known for fantastic Spanish tapas, Dinner Club offers Asian fusion cuisine and Galzig Bistrobar specialises in Italian dishes and great steaks. The streets are literally lined with international offerings, meaning everyone in your group (even the Sushi fan) will be satiated.

Après Ski in St. Anton

Not only is St. Anton visually picture-perfect with a huge network of marked ski routes, it’s a mecca for après ski and is home to two of the world’s most famous post-ski bars, Mooserwirt and Krazy Kanguruh. However, your first stop after being on the mountain all day will probably be the sun-soaked terrace of Heustadl. You can also grab a decent bite to eat here (because we all know you’re not making it back for dinner.)

The two most famous après bars are the enjoyably named Mooserwirt and Krazy Kanguruh. Both of these venues are NOT the place to go if you’re looking for a relaxed drink, as they are often crowded and known for their party atmosphere. At Mooserwirt, the party stops at around 8pm, when you can make the call as to whether you’re in a fit enough state to ride the short distance back down to town - fear not though, there’s a paved pathway that leads down from the back.

If you’d rather get comfortable and cosy, and be able to sip on your drink without fear of it being sent flying by a rogue arm, Eisbar Basecamp has an exclusive feel that will satisfy the goldilocks of the group - it’s not too busy, the music isn’t too loud and the clientele aren’t too rowdy.

St. Anton For Families & Non-Skiers

St Anton is equipped with a vast menu of things to do for both families and non-skiers. Indoor activities for families include bowling, trampolining, climbing, escape rooms and tennis, while outdoor activity options include tobogganing, ice skating, paragliding, curling, sleigh riding and getting out and about with the huskies.

Non-skiers can also enjoy all of these of course, along with yoga, swimming and spa days at the Arlberg WellCom, where saunas and steam rooms, a gym, a swimming pool and a menu of treatments are available.

Accommodation Options in St. Anton

The resort of St Anton encompasses the villages of St Jakob, St Christoph and Stuben-am-Arlberg, so accommodation is spread out throughout them all in the form of hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs and self-catering - fear not though, it’s all connected by a short bus ride.

If you want to be as central as possible, opt to stay in St Anton itself, near to the Galzig gondola. Be warned though, this is also the epicentre of après and partying, so probably not the best choice for families. The quieter end at Nasserein is better if you’re looking for a relaxing environment. Another quieter option is Stuben, which has retained its village feel.

For high-end, exclusive ski-in and ski-out vibes, St Christoph is a popular choice and is definitely more sedate than St Anton. While everywhere here has a reputation for being expensive, (it is Austria, after all) you can easily find something to suit your needs and budget.

Environment and Sustainability in St. Anton

The resort is powered by the Kartell Reservoir power plant, and heated using biomass. There are strict regulations about zero chemicals being used in the artificial snow-making process, and other efforts such as waste separation have been in place for years. St Anton is also part of the KLAR! Climate Change Adaptation Model, which seeks to implement specific measures targeting climate change.

Pros & Cons of the Resort

Pros

• A huge ski area
• Great off-piste opportunities
• World-class après scene

Cons

• Not too beginner friendly
• Expensive

St. Anton am Arlberg Pros: Why the Snomad Community Loves It

1. A huge ski area
2. Great off-piste opportunities
3. World-class après scene

St. Anton am Arlberg Cons: What Snomad Skiers Say Could Be Better

1. Not too beginner friendly
2. Expensive

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