Often referred to as a ‘Freerider’s Mecca’, Verbier forms part of Switzerland’s largest ski area and the third largest in Europe, the Four Valleys. With over 410km of slopes and a top altitude of 3330m, this scenic resort of sprawling wood chalets backed by pine forest has a world class reputation. This prestigious reputation is recognised all over the world - in both 2021 and 2022, Verbier was awarded the World’s Best Ski Resort at the World Ski Awards. So it’s little wonder that the rich, famous and royal have frequented this resort for decades - you might well be skiing next to a famous athlete or a member of the British monarchy when you ride here. On my last trip to Verbier, I shared a lift up with Sir Richard Branson!
With a long season that runs from November to April, the resort is serviced by 93 lifts and is only a couple of hours from Geneva Airport. Verbier, once a small community of cattle-herders living simply in stone alpine stables, transformed into a fully-fledged ski resort only after three key developments: the tourist office opening in 1937, a drivable road reaching what is now the centre of Verbier in 1949 and the founding of the ski lift company in 1950. Any keen history buffs can get a glimpse of old Verbier in the parish church of Le Châble or one of the many museums and galleries in the town. Surrounded entirely by scenery straight out of a Toblerone advert, there’s an abundance of things to do, events to watch and delicious food and drink to try.
The Skiing in Verbier
The skiing in and around Verbier is spread across four main areas which are Verbier, La Tzoumaz, Bruson and Mont Fort, which is the highest point in The Four Valleys.
This forward-thinking resort is a goldmine for freeriders and is the birthplace of the Freeride World Tour AKA Xtreme Verbier. One glance at the varied terrain and it comes as no surprise to hear that there are seven marked itineraries for the expert off-piste rider to enjoy, sliding down the faces and into the powder fields of Mont-Gelé, or between the trees of Les Otanes - needless to say there are also countless mountain guides available on hand to take you another step beyond with bootpacking trips and heli-drops.
While all of that might sound intimidating to the beginner rider, or those who just like to enjoy cruising atop fresh corduroy, there are plenty of varied pistes, too. For complete beginners, the three nursery areas of Les Esserts, les Moulins and La Tzoumaz are easily accessed from the resort centre, and the lower-altitude tree runs of Bruson are great for both bad weather and beginner rides, they don’t tend to get as tracked out as the main Verbier area. If it’s wide, mellow pistes with sun-drenched panoramic views you’re after, the Attelas to Medran descent down into Verbier is a rolling red, popular with riders of mixed levels. Similar uninterrupted ‘boulevard’ runs exist on the La Tzoumaz side of the Savoleyres Gondola, which is also north-facing and so could be better for snow, depending on conditions. These areas are undoubtedly the most popular areas of the resort, but rest-assured that they are serviced by a mix of gondolas and high-speed 6 and 8 man chairlifts to keep things moving as smoothly as possible.
For freestyle fans, there are several ‘Fun Zones’ spread across the mountain, including the Verbier La Chaux Snowpark which has three different lines (Small, Medium & Large) with a range of kickers, tabletops and rails. Other areas include slalom races, a speed-skiing sprint and a ski cross park funded by the Copperfield International School.
Eating Out in Verbier
There are over 120 restaurants and bars in Verbier, which gives you an idea as to exactly how much choice you’ve got for each meal. These range in cuisine and budget but many tend to be at a higher price point than you may be used to (spoiler alert: Switzerland can be expensive.) Perhaps unsurprisingly, the town is home to many exquisite restaurants - three have made it to the Michelin guide and one, La Table d’Adrien, holds its own star.
As for eating on the mountain, there are countless piste-side restaurants to choose from, ranging from the casual self-service cafes serving burgers and pizza through to gourmet offerings with fur-clad seats, panoramic views and magnums of rosé wine. Restaurants such as Chez Simon, Le Carrefour, Le Dahu and Chez Dany are great for resting between runs.
Make sure to sample the area's speciality, raclette, which is essentially hot cheese scraped right off the wheel served alongside meats, boiled potatoes and other vegetables - Le Caveau is known for providing an authentic experience and excellent hospitality.
Après Ski in Verbier
Verbier proves that the Swiss sure know how to throw a party! With 8 après-ski venues and 24 bars and clubs in total, it’s part of the DNA here. There’s a selection of slopeside suntraps where you can enjoy DJ sets and cold drinks including Bar 1936 and Ice Cube. Once you’re back at resort level, both Pub Mont Fort and Le Farinet draw a fun crowd and offer a reliably good atmosphere for après - you’ll regularly see shot glasses stretching the length of the bar.
However, the Farm Club takes the cake when it comes to Verbier’s nightlife scene. A time-honoured institution with a legacy that rivals Studio 54, this iconic alpine venue was opened in 1971 and has retained its allure ever since - just be sure not to dress too casually and keep in mind that no entrance fee will mean higher prices inside.
Verbier for Families & Non-Skiers
Verbier prides itself on being a destination for everyone, with La Tzoumaz being the most family-friendly area. The full agenda of activities is updated each year, but mainstays include dog sledding experiences, paragliding and ice skating. There’s also a cinema, an indoor climbing wall and countless spa facilities.
As for mountain-based adventures that don’t require you to ski or snowboard, you can try the longest zipline in the alps, the Mont-Fort zipline, which is 1400 metres long, has a 383m drop (from about 3330m down to 2900m) and allows you to reach speeds of up to 130 km/h! If you’d like to see these views without the adrenaline rush, you can instead use a pedestrian pass and take the lifts up to the Mont-Fort viewing platform, situated above the Mont-Fort gondola. For fun as a group, we also recommend the toboggan run in the La Tzoumaz sector, which has an 800m descent and will allow you an alternative way of racing down the piste.
There are also many snowshoe hikes and winter walks including the 3-D Sculpture Park which is an easy 1-hour, almost flat walk, doable with good winter shoes.
Accommodation Options in Verbier
There’s a healthy choice of accommodation available throughout the resort, with 24 hotels and around 5,000 chalets and apartments split across 29 rental agencies. These range between the high-end, affordable, authentic and unusual, including the 2457m high Cabane du Mont-Fort which brings an entirely new meaning to ‘ski-in, ski-out.’ The W Verbier has also won the World’s Best Ski Hotel for several years running and is home to one of the best restaurants in the town, Eat Hola Tapas Bar.
Top Events in Verbier
It isn’t just the previously mentioned Freeride World Tour final (Xtreme Verbier) that the resort plays host to each year on the legendary Bec Des Rosses, Verbier is also known for Polaris, an electronic dance music festival and have previously included the Red Bull Home Run. Their calendar of events is updated each season so check back soon for the 2025 line-up of events!
Environment and Sustainability in Verbier
Verbier is moving in a positive direction when it comes to the environment and ‘Swisstainability.’ The ski lift company uses mainly hydraulic energy and the resort as a whole is highly committed to lessening its impact via infrastructure including renewable energy, heat recovery, photovoltaic solar panels and adaptive speed regulation in the lift systems.
Pros & Cons of the Resort
Pros
- Freeride mecca - incredible off-piste and backcountry opportunities - steep and deep!
- Snow-sure resort - High altitude and a favourable microclimate (Some of the best powder I’ve ever skied!) Artificial snowmaking on 63% of the ski area for when the weather isn’t on your side
- Plenty to do for non-skiers and families
- An après scene to rival the best of them
- Huge ski area - 410km of slopes. Largest ski area in Switzerland and 3rd largest in Europe.
- 100s of restaurants and bars to cater for all tastes and budgets
- Relatively short transfer time from local airports
Cons
- Not cheap - Verbier leans towards the more expensive end of the scale compared to other European resorts but as the old saying goes, you get what you pay for!
- Due to its popularity, Verbier can get crowded particularly during peak holiday periods. However, their efficient lift infrastructure ensures that lift lines keep moving quickly