Val Thorens is a popular snow-sure resort that has a lot going for it. With fast airport transfers and good rail links, ski in/ski out accommodation and a lively buzz in town it ticks all the boxes for younger skiers and families alike.
At 2300 m it’s well known that Val Thorens is the highest ski resort in Europe, but its appealing purpose-built design is less well-known as a recent product of the 1970s. The architecture is mostly low to medium-rise and the extensive use of wood adds to the Alpine feel. Located in the northern French Alps Valley in the Savoie region, Val Thorens offers 150 km of pistes and links to a further 600 km as part of the extended Three Valleys area. The skiing is purposely designed to be wide-ranging, attracting novices through to hard-core off-piste adrenaline junkies. A particular benefit of the altitude is that Val Thorens boasts one of the longest French seasons, often running from mid-Nov to mid-May.
The resort has a reputation for superbly groomed wide pistes, which are mostly blues and reds, along with a few blacks. This makes Val Thorens most suited to intermediates with a huge choice of fun and challenging runs. Continual investment in ski lifts means access to the slopes isn’t crowded and ascents are quick. At this altitude, cloud cover can descend suddenly higher up but finding alternatives lower down isn’t difficult.
Like some of the other resorts in the Savoie region Val Thorens is well-placed for easy transfers:
Geneva airport: 2 hrs by road Chambéry airport: 1.5 hrs by road
Geneva airport offers more flights but is a much larger airport to negotiate. The airport has French and Swiss areas. Rent a car from the French side for cheaper prices. Chambéry airport is smaller and more relaxing but offers fewer flights. There are numerous English-run companies offering minivan transfers or taxi services.
The Skiing
Val Thorens is situated well above the tree line ensuring plenty of wide and open pistes across the mountain. There are several areas to explore including:
Plein Sud, a wide-open south-facing series of runs often catching the sun and with the renowned Folie Douce Bar hosting DJs and live music for a well-earned break.
You can take the 3 Valleys Chair from here to reach the extensive runs of Meribel Mottaret, as well as links to more distant 3 Valleys runs.
Funitel Péclet is a west-facing area, which tends to catch the sun best in the afternoon. At 3,000m the legendary Péclet Glacier is one of the most beautiful views in the Alps. Take in a 360° panorama of more than 1000 snow-capped peaks of the Alps across France, Switzerland and Italy.
At 3000 m you get a great view of the glacier and excellent views across the valley. In the same area, if you are looking for a challenge the Cascades black run takes you down over a mogul field where you can view the ice climbing wall to the side of the piste.
Grand Fond (Montée du Fond) is a high north-facing area that offers excellent skiing but can be very cold when there is no sun.
Overall, Val Thorens offers 150 km of runs spread across 11 green, 39 blue, 30 red and 8 black all serviced by 30 ski lifts.
Snow Parks and Fun
The VT Park situated in the Plateau area offers skiers and snowboarders the chance to practise safely on a freestyle course adapted to any level. At 70 m² the VT Park features tables, rails, and boxes of varying sizes. A hip-quarter feature enables freestylers to safely practice acrobatic moves. Throughout the season freestyle competitions are organised, where freestylers are encouraged to watch and participate.
Zip Wire or Tyrolienne
A new zip wire enables you to enjoy superb views of the Maurienne and Tarentaise valleys. Supported in a fabric cocoon and speeding over the landscape for 1 minute 45 seconds at speeds of over 100 kmh you’ll take in a birds-eye view of the surrounding area.
Skicross
Skicross is an Olympic and World Cup event. The first World Cup Skicross in Val Thorens was held in December 2012. Skicross incorporates terrain features found in freestyle skiing with courses which include big-air jumps and high-banked turns. When not in use for practice or competition skiers can try the courses.
Tubing and Tobogganing
Located near the base of the Cascades chairlift 2 Tubing lanes enable solo youngsters from 9 years to try the run. Children of five years + can ride tandem with a parent. A helmet is recommended, and gloves are required. Climb to the top of the slope using the Campagnols carpet.
Even tobogganing in Val Thorens is world-class. Recently rebranded Cosmojet enjoy the thrills of the longest tobogganing run in France at 6km, which takes about 45 minutes to descend the run. To access the start, take the Funitel Péclet to the top. Take your place on the dedicated toboggan run and enjoy the fun of banked turns and faster straight sections as you speed down.
Beginner’s Areas
The ‘Easy Rider’ beginner’s areas are:
· On the Milky Way trail next to the Castor and Pollux carpets · On the froggy track next to the Shrew and Vole carpets
Aimed at all youngsters from 2 years + with free or concession rates.
As you would expect the nursery slopes in the centre of the resort are very gentle and separated from faster skiers. Magic carpet lifts help build confidence transitioning on the snow. When your confidence builds there are a couple of greens to progress to the 2 Lacs and Cascades areas, as well as some easier blues above the village to build further confidence.
Where to eat out in Val Thorens?
Eating on the Slopes
There are at least 11 restaurants and cafes spread across the slopes of Val Thorens. These range from simpler cafeteria-style outlets, such as Les Chalets du Thorens offering simple dishes such as pizza alongside hearty Savoyade plates such as Tartiflette, a filling potato, onion and cheese dish or chunky soups and bread. For faster food options try John’s American Restaurant. It’s a 20-year stalwart of Val Thorens offering Tex-Mex dishes ranging from home-made burgers, fajitas, ribs and steaks.
As ever, most people choose to eat at about 1 pm, so arriving early at noon or later at 2 PM will enable you to spend much more time on the slopes instead of waiting in queues.
Eating in Val Thorens Town
Val Thorens is a large enough town to be able to offer a variety of cuisines to different pockets. As you would imagine there is a good selection of traditional French restaurants offering local Savoyade dishes such as Tartiflette and Fondue which show off hearty mountain cooking using baked vegetables and local cheese.
Chez Pépé Nicolas, situated between Les Menuires and Val Thorens is a traditional family restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner you can enjoy views from the terrace or the chic interior while enjoying Fondue Savoyade or the popular local cheese, Raclette.
L'Auberge des Balcons is a popular restaurant offering pizzas, ravioli, and risotto which customers rave about as well as more traditional French dishes, some of which are themed for vegetarians and vegans. Maybe finish off your evening with blueberry pie and ice cream.
If Latin American food takes your fancy, try the selection of budget-priced dishes at Favela Val Thorens. Filling authentic dishes including quesadillas, tacos, burritos, burgers, sliders and chilli con carne provide plenty of choices. Choose from the three floor restaurant or take in the street life from the huge outdoor terrace.
Après Ski in Val Thorens
In Val Thorens when it comes to après two institutions come to mind. The word iconic is overused nowadays but for the bar Folie Douce located directly on the slopes under the Plein Sud chairlift, it couldn’t be more apt. Hearing the music pumping as you slowly approach across the valley it’s impossible not to be drawn into the atmosphere. With DJs starting mid-afternoon the crowd soon builds, so that after a few drinks, all available tables are packed with dancing skiers. If the alcohol is starting to take its toll repair to the alongside restaurant La Fruitiere for a late lunch.
If you like Folie Douce but want a change head over to Bar 360. Take in the sun and relax and let the music motivate you when it starts pumping at 2 PM. If karaoke and happy hours are more your bag you will be spoilt for choice. In town, you’re in for a guaranteed good time at Café Snesko offering live music from 17:30 every night, including crazy Danish songs mixed with English classics.
If you like a cosmopolitan vibe try Le Saloon. There is always something new going on with regular live music and an international team of staff. The very popular happy hour runs from 15:00 to 17:00.
Le Rendez-Vous is another popular haunt, and for the homesick The Frog and Roastbeef is a traditional Franglais pub with party tunes and plenty of dancing.
Is Val Thorens Family-friendly?
Val Thorens has been designed to be family friendly from the outset. A good proportion of the accommodation in Val Thorens is organised as family friendly apartments making it so much easier to keep an eye on the youngsters. Ski in ski out access helps to smooth out the bumps where everyone is feeling tired after a long day on the slopes. Plenty of pedestrianised routes through town simplify navigating the streets.
Family ski passes never come cheap, however, armed with the special discount for families, who are travelling together for the same length of time can reap the rewards of cheaper times on the runs.
Family facilities on the slopes have been well thought through. The two Easy Rider beginner parks offer safety and confidence building for youngsters of 2+. Group and one-to-one lessons are easily booked online.
The team at Val Thorens were quick to register interest for off slope activities and they reacted with considerable investment, demonstrated by the sports centre which contains swimming pools and a sports court. The court features an indoor recreation park aimed solely at kids and spread over 600 m². Kids can work off their energy on a selection of trampolines, bouncy castles and pools filled with plastic balls.
Accommodation in Val Thorens
New accommodation is still springing up throughout Val Thorens however it must be said over recent years a good proportion of new properties, whether apartments or hotels have been at the luxury end of the market. That said there is still plenty of choice for all tastes and budgets including hotels, chalets and apartments.
With the extended ski season, the availability of accommodation is also wider, although as with any destination booking early is always advised. If you want to stay close to the action in the centre of town you will tend to pay a premium for the advantage.
Pros & Cons of Val Thorens
Pros
Access to the three valleys area - more than 600 km of runs Snowsure - the altitude makes sure of that Long season -practical skiing from mid-November to mid-May Excellent for intermediates - also good for beginners and experts Infrastructure investment - new lifts and equipment Family friendly accommodation - often ski in ski out
Cons
Above the tree line - few options for shelter on stormy days Limited black runs for experts - but plenty of off piste opportunities Some experience headaches with the altitude - this often fades after a couple of days Val Thorens attracts many people - some may find this opressive