There aren’t many mountains that boast about how often you can’t ski, but there aren’t many mountains like Alta, located just outside of Salt Lake City in Little Cottonwood Canyon. With over 55% of its terrain rated as expert and an average of over 500 inches of snow per year (including a record-breaking 903 inches in the 22-23 season), Alta occasionally has to close its slopes due to avalanche risk. This means that when the bombs stop blasting and the interlodge is lifted (an avalanche safety protocol where guests are required to stay indoors), skiers are guaranteed some of the steepest and deepest turns of their lives. Notice we said skiers—Alta is one of the few skier-only resorts in the world. Sorry to our snowboarding friends; you’ll have to stick to the Snowbird side of the mountain.
Skiing at Alta
Most skiers who head to Alta head there for the snow and the terrain. And it will not disappoint. What might surprise some skiers is that there is a lot of hiking and traversing required to get to the most famous runs. And we mean a lot. Locals love to joke that the name is an acronym - Another Long Traverse Again. And those traverses can be pretty difficult to do in a foot or two of powder. Combined with an altitude over 8,000 feet, your legs may well turn to jelly after a day at Alta - and that’s a sign of a good day!
Okay, now that you’ve been sufficiently warned, let’s get into the fun stuff. Make no mistake, skiing Alta is very fun. The famed “High Boy,” technically called Alf’s High Rustler, looms over the Alta Lodge at 45 degrees, and empties out in the canyon below. For those who love steeps, it truly doesn’t get much better than this long, straight shot of a run, although we can’t recommend straightlining this one (only because you’d have to be crazy to try). If you like a little less of an audience, Gunsight is a chute with a similarly adrenaline inducing entrance. It’s a bit more sheltered off of the High Traverse and holds snow well, but is a popular run that will track out early.
The Baldy Chutes are the best of the best that Alta has to offer. There’s an intense bootpack up, and the easiest route down is the Main Chute, a wider run that comes in at a cool 44 degrees with a cornice drop in. For ex-slalom skiers, Perla’s and Little Chute are a little less trafficked but require some tight turns. On a powder day, these intense runs are truly some of the most exciting in the world. You can hear riders hooting and hollering as they come down these legendary runs all the way from the Sugarloaf lift.
If those runs are closed due to avalanche risk, seem a little too tracked out, or just feel excessively steep, head to Catherine’s area off of the Supreme lift. It’s a short sidestep as opposed to the Baldy hike or the High Traverse, and its slightly more mellow terrain holds snow better than other spots on the mountain. The trees in Catherines will treat you well.
If chutes and trees and cliffs aren’t your thing, the Sugarloaf and Supreme lifts both have some spectacular groomers that you can Hollywood all the way down to the base. The groomers at Alta are often overlooked, which is good news for people who prefer them - they don’t tend to ice over as fast as other mountains.
It’s important to understand one thing about Alta. If you can see it, you can ski it. Unless it’s roped off, obviously. Runs aren’t marked as clearly as they are at some other resorts, and you should embrace that freedom. Hike up Baldy, hit the High Traverse, and when you look over the edge and feel a line calling to you, take it. That’s how you’ll get the most out of Alta.
Eating out in Alta
There’s no large strip of restaurants or main town in Alta - they save most of their real estate for skiing. But the few restaurants nearby are nothing to turn your nose up at. Just at the base of the mountain, you’ll first run into the Goldminer’s Daughter. Whether you’re just starting out your day, hoping for a coffee, or fueling up at lunch with their famous pizza, Goldminer’s is a classic stop. If you walk or ski your way up the bunny hill, you’ll find yourself at the Rustler Lodge, which boasts unparalleled fine dining with views to match. There are plenty of on-mountain options as well, located conveniently near major lifts. Alf’s, Collin’s, and Watson’s serve as both restaurants and warming huts during the famous Alta snowstorms.
Après Ski in Alta
Utah is the strictest state in the United States when it comes to liquor laws, with more than half of its population belonging to the LDS Church. But no matter where you are, après will find a way. Upon first arriving at the base of Alta, we strongly recommend trying an Alta Bomb at the Goldminer’s Daughter. Never heard of it? There might be a good reason for that - it’s a lager with a shot of espresso served on the side. Drop in the espresso and you’re on your way to a great start to the day! Just make sure to drink a little beer and make room for the shot glass before dropping in. At the end of the day, locals flock to the Peruvian. Known affectionately as P-Dog, you’ll find complimentary popcorn, plenty of shredders trading stories from their day of skiing, and the largest bison head you’ve ever seen mounted to the wall. If you’re looking for something a bit more upscale, visit the Alta or Snowpine Lodges for cozy cocktail vibes. And if you end up having a few drinks too many, be sure to call the free Alta Shuttle service to take you home.
Is Alta Family-friendly?
While Alta is usually thought of as an expert’s mountain, there is plenty of beginner terrain for the whole family. Their groomed runs are wide, and Utah’s world famous dry snow holds up better than almost anywhere in the world throughout the day. We’ve skied there for days at a time and never hit so much as a patch of ice. Navigation difficulty is perhaps the biggest danger. Trails are not as explicitly marked as some other mountains, so we don’t recommend letting the little ones roam free - they might accidentally ski all the way to Snowbird. In addition to getting lost, the sheer amount of expert terrain means that it is easy to end up looking over the edge of a cliff by accident. Alta does have a ski school and dedicated beginner areas, but there isn’t much in the way of other activities. There is no town center, so the ice skating will have to wait for another trip. But if the kids love skiing, Alta has plenty of terrain for the whole family!
Accommodation in Alta
If you’re flying into Salt Lake City, we highly recommend setting up a reservation with the UTA ski bus or another private shuttle service. Once you arrive in Alta, there is a free shuttle service that will take you anywhere in the canyon, so a car is not necessary. You can also stay in Salt Lake City and drive the 45 minutes up to Alta - although the road is narrow and can get packed with traffic. There are plenty of accommodation options in Alta itself, from ski-in-ski-out options like the Peruvian, Goldminer’s Daughter, and the Rustler Lodge (which has been rated the best place to stay in Alta for over 10 years running). If you don’t mind taking the shuttle for a cheaper stay, the Blackjack and Powder Ridge condos are budget favorites.
Sustainability at Alta
Established in 1871, the entire town of Alta was destroyed not once, but twice, by fires and avalanches. Perhaps because of this history, the Environmental Center was established in 2008. Since 1991, they’ve planted nearly 50,000 trees and restored more than 3,000 acres of wetland ecosystems.
Pros & Cons of Alta
Pros
- Legendary snowfall, both in quality and quantity.
- The terrain is an expert skier's dream, with plenty of chutes, bowls, and tree runs.
- Friendly and laid-back vibe. If you’re unsure about something, locals are happy to help!
- Easy access from Salt Lake City Airport.
- Easy to get around with a free shuttle.
- The snow. I know we already said it. But it is seriously some of the best in the world.
Cons
- No snowboarding. No exceptions.
- Interlodges from heavy snowfall can throw a wrench in shorter trips.
- No walkable town area.
- Limited après and eating-out options
- Not covered by Ikon Base pass. Make sure that you have the Ikon Plus or higher for access.