The Skiers' Guide to Engelberg

Tucked in a high valley of Obwalden in Central Switzerland, Engelberg is a skier’s paradise that delivers big-mountain thrills, epic powder, and incredible views. Home to the legendary Titlis Glacier, the resort boasts over 2,000 meters of vertical drop, world-class freeride terrain, and breathtaking high-altitude vistas. Once a sleepy alpine community known for its Benedictine Monastery (which now also houses a cheese-making factory and shop, obviously,) this charming Swiss village has been transformed over time into an efficient and accessible resort with a reputation for picture-perfect pow days. Local intel tells us that the investments in the resort’s infrastructure came mostly from Scandinavian tech moguls who discovered the resort way back in the 90s - while we’re not taking that as strictly gospel, it’s not hard to imagine falling so in love with this resort that you want your own little slice of paradise.

Engelberg is easy to access via train directly from Lucerne with the closest airport being Zurich. A free shuttle bus runs between the train station, town and main lifts which makes getting about a breeze no matter where you stay. While it’s not exactly party central, there is some après to be had in town and a varied choice of accommodation. Interestingly, Mount Titlis and the Engelberg surrounds have previously been used as a filming location and backdrop for many a Bollywood movie, so the resort attracts a considerable number of Indian tourists wanting to see the real thing for themselves.

Whether you’re charging groomers, tackling steep off-piste descents, or soaking in the vibrant Swiss culture, Engelberg blends raw mountain energy with traditional charm. With its glacier-skiing, dynamic terrain, and lively village atmosphere, this is where those daydreams of waist-deep pow can become a reality.

Engelberg’s ski area offers a modest 82km of pistes, but the real attractions are the off-piste possibilities. Pistes are mostly intermediate to advanced graded, and the complete beginner and children’s area of Klostermatte sits at just 1050m, which can be tricky depending on snow conditions, but rest assured, the resort is equipped with snowmaking facilities. Those who are progressing quickly can climb higher up the mountain on either side, either to blue runs at Brunnihütte at 1860m or Gerschnialp at 1262m. Thanks to the glacier, the season is long and the slopes are mainly north facing so snow stays although this can get hard-packed so make sure you have good edges and know how to handle the sometimes challenging reds and blacks.

Due to the Titlis massif attracting storms from every direction, snowfall is abundant and often very light. With the big-mountain terrain Engelberg quickly becomes a pow paradise. For those following the snow forecast and wanting to score a short trip, the easy proximity to Zurich makes things very tempting. Hailed far and wide as a freeride mecca, Engelberg has ultimately been ‘discovered’ which means its a good idea to hire guide for the top secret stashes. There are countless lines to choose from, with a choice of freeriding zones known as the Big Five. These are Galtiberg, Steinberg, Sulz, Steintäli and last but certainly not least, Laub - a legendary 1,000m vertical off-piste face with wide-open powder fields.

Whether you’re refueling slopeside or indulging in an exquisite dinner out, Engelberg’s dining scene has something for all tastes. For a classic alpine experience, Flühmatt serves up legendary Älplermagronen (Swiss mac & cheese) in a cozy mountain hut, while Restaurant Fürenalp offers breathtaking views and hearty traditional fare. On the slopes, Alpstübli at Trübsee is perfect for a relaxed lunch with local specialties, while Jochpass Berghaus is a must for skiers craving a delicious rösti between runs.

In town, Spice Bazaar (at Hotel Central) stands out for its top-rated Indian cuisine, while Alpenclub has a great wine menu and is the place to head for cosy interiors, bubbling fondue and decadent desserts. For a casual après-ski bite, Yucatan offers burgers and Tex-Mex and is one of the liveliest places for music and drinks once the lifts wind down.

Hess Asia is also top-rated, bringing vibrant Asian flavours to the Swiss mountains. Hess is a name you’ll find frequently throughout the resort, as the Hess family were pioneers of tourism in the resort throughout the 1800s, opening the grand Hotel Hess in 1885 which remained standing until 2001, when a developer deemed a remodel financially unfeasible. To this day, descendant Geny Hess (a true local legend, OG freerider and wine consultant) runs his own wine shop, Hess Selection.

Engelberg isn’t renowned for any wild après-ski but there’s generally a good atmosphere around town with a strong year-round community of people living in the village. As you come off the slopes, Le Chalet is the best place to stop for a drink with regular DJ sets and a buzzing atmosphere.

In the village centre, the Yucatan bar and restaurant (part of the Hotel Bellevue Terminus) is a lively spot with plenty of live music and DJ sets. The bar at the Ski Lodge is also a fantastic spot with a laid-back atmosphere and like-minded skiers enjoying a well-earned après drink on the terrace with stunning views.

For late-night partying the Gletscherspalte often has DJs playing into the early hours. There’s also an Irish pub, The Core.

Families and non -skiers can enjoy the usual programme of off-slope activities such as walking, sledding and ice skating. Other entertaining options include the e-Snowmobile terrain park (unique to Switzerland) and the Trübsee tubing park at the Berghotel Trübsee.

There are a range of cultural experiences to enjoy in Engelberg too. The aforementioned Hess Selection should be on any oenophile’s list, while Roastery combines amazing coffee with a gift boutique. Tours of the almost 900-year-old Benedictine Monastery are available every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, while the Titilis Bridge Cliffwalk (believed to be Europe’s highest suspension bridge) offers a completely different mountain thrill.

Engelberg has a great mix of ski-in/ski-out lodges, luxury hotels, and budget-friendly stays, catering to all kinds of skiers. For complete convenience, the Berghotel Trübsee sits halfway up the Titlis ski area which means you’ll be first on the mountain and can return back after a full days skiing to a cosy alpine interior and a sprawling sun terrace. Ski Lodge Engelberg is a cool and contemporary option favoured by freeriders located close to the Titlis lifts, with a lively ski lodge atmosphere. It also offers great food and craft beer.

If you’re travelling on a budget, the Spannort Inn and Yucatan Lodge have a good reputation with reasonable prices.

Alternatively, if you want to stay in a truly iconic hotel, or you’re used to the finer things in life, the Kempinski Palace Engelberg is a palatial retreat complete with a choice of eateries, luxury spa with infinity pool and some of the best views around.

The Energy City label is a certificate of achievement for municipalities that exemplify and implement a sustainable municipal energy policy. Engelberg has been allowed to use this title since 2011 and is continuing to improve its status with a range of measures, such as:

• Since the 2019/20 season, a wood heating plant has supplied heat via a pipeline to the village centre.
• A free in-resort shuttle bus discourages car use and provides regular drop-offs and pick-ups at the railway station.
• All cable cars are operated by hydropower.
• All waste is separated for recycling.
• Local food suppliers are championed and used throughout the resort.
• The resort ‘covers its own needs’ with 100% renewable electricity.

Pros

• Huge area lift pass
• State-of-the-art lift system
• Mindblowing and accessible off-piste
• Glacier skiing promises good conditions

Cons

• Limited terrain for intermediates
• The beginner area is low so might not be super reliable
• Not considered to be a major après destination (could be a pro for some)