The Skiers' Guide to Chamonix

The iconic Chamonix located in the French Alps, has a global reputation as one of the world's top skiing destinations, particularly well known for its off-piste and freeride terrain. Sitting in the shadow of the tallest mountain in The Alps, the beautiful Mont Blanc, Chamonix (or "Cham" as it's known to locals and regulars) offers a range of challenging pistes and some of the best, accessible off-piste skiing in the world including steeps, couloirs, glacier skiing and tree skiing too.

But don't be put off by it's hardcore, alpinist reputation; with multiple ski areas and a buzzing mountain town, the Chamonix valley offers something for all levels of skier from the family-friendly Les Houches ski area to the fun pistes of Brévent and Flégère. However, this isn't your typical ski-in / ski-out resort destination so it might not be the perfect resort for everyone. As you will see in the skier reviews below, Chamonix can divide opinion.

Located just over an hour from Geneva airport, the Chamonix-Mont-Blanc Valley offers multiple ski areas, all with their own unique features, keeping the skiing varied and fun whatever the conditions. In Chamonix, you get both the north side and the south side facing ski areas mixed in with different elevations, meaning that more often than not, you can find good snow and visibility somewhere in the valley, no matter the conditions. The different ski areas are not connected and you will need to get a bus between them or drive, which can be a surprise to many!

Les Grands Montets

Elevation: 1,235m - 2,800m/3,300m Total slope length: 29km

A 20 minute drive out of the main town of Chamonix, located in Argentiere, Les Grands Montets is the highest (and most famous) of the ski areas with an altitude of 3,300m. The north / north west aspect usually means that this area guarantees the best snow. On first glance, it may appear that there are only a handful of lifts and runs but the lifts give you easy access to an endless playground of off-piste fun, ranging from incredible glacial terrain to fun lines between the trees, lower down. On a powder day, experts flock to this area for first pow turns so it will get tracked out quickly. However, a short ski tour can take you to the summit of Les Grandes Montets (where the old Lognan lift used to go before it burnt down in 2018) giving you access to fresh powder and spectacular views, if you're prepared to earn your turns (crevasse danger present so consider taking a guide if unfamiliar with the terrain). For those who prefer to stick to the piste, you will find a handful of red and blue runs to play on with my favourite being the red run, Bochard, which is a long, fun run under the TC Bochard gondola. There are no green runs in this area so beginners are probably best off sticking to the other ski areas.

Brévent / Flégère

Elevation: 1,030m - 2,525m Total slope length: 56km

These 2 ski areas are connected to each other and are the closest to Chamonix town (Brévent is the closest to town and Flégère is a 5 min drive away). The 2 ski areas cater to skiers of all levels, with slopes ranging from beginner-friendly greens to challenging blacks (as well as more off-piste options!) With the south-facing aspect of this area, skiers get to work on their goggle-tans while taking in the spectacular views of the valley. This area also has an array of nice mountain restaurants but you might want to book ahead as they tend to get busy, particularly during peak season

Domaine du Balme (Le Tour / Vallorcine)

Elevation: 1,453m - 2,250m Total slope length: 29km

Located a further 3km further up the valley passed Les Grandes Montets, Domaine du Balme is one of the best ski areas in the valley for beginners and intermediates. The Vormaine area is perfect for lower level skiers with its green and blue runs served by 3 drag lifts. The main ski area consists of 1 black run, 7 red runs and 11 blue runs. With Chamonix being Chamonix, there is also some pretty decent off piste to be found here too! For park skiers, the best terrain park in Chamonix is also located here with some well shaped kickers and decent-sized rails and boxes to play on. Given it's location out of town, Le Tour tends to be much quieter than Brévent / Flégère too.

Les Houches

Elevation: 1,000m - 1,900m Total slope length: 55km

Similar to Domaine du Balme, Les Houches is a great ski area for beginners and intermediates and is well known as the best family area. Although the snow can be less reliable here with pistes running from 950m - 1900m. When the weather is bad it can be a great place to ski with fun runs through the trees. A note for boarders, there are a fair number of drag lifts and there are quite a few flatter sections leading up to the bottom of many of the lifts too. Worth noting that Les Houches is included on the Mont Blanc Unlimited pass but not on the Chamonix Le Pass.

Aiguille Du Midi / Vallée Blanche

Elevation: 3,842m

The Aiguille du Midi is the spectacular and world-famous mountain peak in the Mont Blanc Massif reaching 3,842m. Up there, you'll get treated to some of the most surreal, panoramic views of the French, Swiss and Italian Alps. With the Mont Blanc Unlimited ski pass, you can book a timeslot on the Telepherique de l'Aguille du Midi cable car, accessible from the centre of Chamonix. Tourists get to take in the breathtaking views and can 'Step into the Void,' a glass box suspended over a 1,000m drop. Skiers take the ride up to access the most famous (and maybe the busiest) off-piste ski descent in the world, the Vallée Blanche - a 20km glacier route with a vertical descent of around 2,700 meters. While the skiing of the 'classic' route is relatively mellow, the views are some of the most spectacular that you will ever see with glacial features, seracs, crevasses and ice caves. Truly insane! A guide is strongly recommended due to the crevasse risk. There are also multiple challenging routes down providing some incredible skiing. A guide will provide you with all the safety equipment required including a crampons, harness, ropes, etc.

Courmayeur

Elevation: 1,205m - 2,755m Total slope length: 42km

The Mont Blanc Unlimited Pass also gives you access to Courmayeur in Italy on the other side of the valley which is a 30 minute drive from Chamonix via the Mont Blanc Tunnel. Courmayeur is a fantastic ski area with a mix of pistes for all abilities and some awesome itinerary routes too for the off-pisters. Definitely worth a trip for some south-facing skiing and a delicious Italian pizza for lunch! Your Mont Blanc Unlimited pass also gives you access to the Skyway Monte Bianco lift - a 360 degree rotating sphere cable car taking you to Pointe Helbronner at 3,466m for the spectacular views. Skiing down is reserved for experienced alpinists only. The Toula staircase down to the Toula Glacier is also currently closed (we recently found out the hard way!)

The vibrant, historic town of Chamonix is one of my favourite resort towns. It's a large town with dozens and dozens of shops and restaurants with options to suit all budgets and tastes. For traditional Savoyarde cuisine and authentic alpine dishes, "La Celeche" and "L'Impossible" are the go-to places to stimulate your sense of smell, with fondue and raclette. For upscale dining, "Albert 1er" offers Michelin-star French cuisine with a price to match. At the other end of the scale, "Poco Loco" is a very popular and budget-friendly (delicious!) burger joint. For Italian cuisine and authentic wood-fired pizzas "Caso Valerio" is a favourite with the locals. "Annapurna" also offers delicious authentic Indian cuisine. There also a number of restaurants to be found in both Les Houches and Argentière.

You won't find the on mountain-clubs that you might find at other French resorts but the town itself has options for all tastes. "The Folie Douce Hotel" is a good spot for a party. "Chambre Neuf" with its live bands is a favourite among both locals and tourists. "MBC" (Micro Brasserie de Chamonix) is a great place for a more laid back setting with good value pitchers of craft beer. For those looking for a more sophisticated vibe and good cocktails, "Le Privilege" is a good spot. "Le Pub" in the heart of the town is pupular with Brits and for the hardcore ravers, there are a number of clubs to dance the night away such as "Amnesia" and "Le. Tof".

Chamonix is well-equipped to cater to skiers of all ages, making it a family-friendly skiing destination. For the little ones, there are dedicated beginner areas and good ski schools. Les Houches and Le Tour are particularly popular with families looking to explore gentler slopes together. Off the slopes, Chamonix offers a range of activities for families, from dog sledding to ice skating. The pedestrianised town center is safe for kids to roam and is dotted with family-friendly restaurants and cafes. Many chalets and hotels offer family rooms and childcare services too. Chamonix also offers top quality ski schools as well as private instructors and guides - find and book private ski lessons and guides to safely explore the incredible off-piste opportunities via Maison Sport here.

Accommodation for the Chamonix ski areas can be found either in the town of Chamonix itself or in one of the nearby villages. There are acccommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets including hotels, guest houses, chalets and apartments. If you want to be immersed in the restaurants, shops and nightlife of the main town, I'd recommend staying in Chamonix itself. Argentiere is a good option for those primarily looking to ski at Les Grands Montets and Les Houches tends to be more popular with both families and those looking for more budget-friendly options than those in the main town. As the ski areas are spread out and are not connected, there is no perfect place to access them all as you will need to drive or get the bus to access them all.

Pros

• Some of the best off-piste and freeride terrain in the world including glacier and tree skiing.
• Incredible location with amazing views throughout the Chamonix valley.
• Each day can feel like a new adventure exploring a new ski area.
• Easy access from Geneva Airport.
• Better value than some of the other large French ski areas (although lift pass prices are creeping up!)
• Authentic ski towns with excellent après, restaurants and shops.

Cons

• Not your typical built-up resort with everything offered to you on a plate.
• No ski-in / ski-out style accommodation.
• Ski areas are not connected and can be as far as a 30 minute drive apart.
• Some areas (Les Grands Montets) mainly geared up for off-piste skiing, meaning more limited pistes to ski than other resorts.
• Buses between the ski areas can be very busy during peak times (we recommend getting a car!).
• Icon Pass & Mountain Pass now include Chamonix making the area busier.