The Skiers' Guide to Tignes

France’s second-highest ski resort, Tignes, forms part of the sprawling Espace Killy ski area, boasting over 300km of downhill skiing. Its position above the tree line and mid-1960s construction means that this modern, purpose-built resort is no picture-perfect winter wonderland (although you can find plenty of those vibes in neighbouring Val d’Isère) however it does create a pretty snow-sure environment, with the Grande Motte glacier making it possible to ski right into peak summer.

Known as the cooler, edgier and more extreme younger sibling of Val d’Isère, Tignes is split across several villages as you make your way up the mountain. The lowest, Tignes Les Brevieres, sits at 1550m in the shadow of the imposing Chevril Dam - a 180m tall and 300m wide concrete wall that holds back 230 million cubic metres of water. Connected to the higher villages via a gondola, Les Brevieres (or ‘brev’ as the locals call it) climbs up to Tignes 1800 before you reach the main resort of Tignes 2100, which is split into the three villages of Le Lavachet, Le Lac and Val Claret. Each resort-level village is connected by a free, regular shuttle bus, but can easily be explored on foot - provided you’re not wearing your ski boots. At the centre of the three villages sits the lake of Tignes, which freezes over for most of the winter, opening a convenient footpath for those walking between villages.

We all saw that video of Candide Thovex throwing a double backflip through the iconic Aiguille Percée in late 2023, and this video alone, shot at Tignes’ ‘Eye of The Needle’ serves as an adequate introduction to the resort - it’s big, it’s extreme and it’s the realm of superlatives.

A bowl of blue and white known as le Stade Naturel, skiing and snowboarding in Tignes is a world-class experience. Host of the 1992 Winter Olympics freestyle, mogul and - the very interesting - ski ballet events, Tignes has a reputation for being excellently maintained with intuitive, easy-to-follow links throughout the entire area. There’s an insane amount of backcountry and freeride lines to discover, including the series of couloirs known as ‘the fingers’ that overlook the lake - a top bucket list of steeps for highly-skilled riders. The Grande Casse is also a 3,855m high mecca for advanced riders, best tackled in the springtime when conditions are favourable. For the intermediate skier or snowboarder looking to dip a boot-clad toe into powder riding, Tignes has infinite piste-side pockets and marked off-piste trails (both Golf and Oeillet are heaps of fun) that you can safely explore.

The slopes themselves are a well-rounded mix, although beginners will prefer the rolling green runs reached from the Borsat lift (which also get the morning sun and so are clear of ice relatively quickly), sitting between Tignes and Val d’Isère. In general, learners are better off getting their ski legs in the higher reaches of the resort, as there are a couple of tricky blacks lower down that you don’t want to find yourself on if you’re not so confident. It’s also worth noting that if you’re staying in Le Lac, you’ll be required to ski a section of red and black piste to get back down to the centre from the Val d’Isère side. Panic not though, you can choose to take the Toviere gondola down, or ski down into neighbouring Val Claret and get the shuttle bus back into Le Lac instead - if you’re really dedicated, you can ski ‘around the world’ down by taking the Tichot and Grattalu lifts, coming back down into Lac via the Palafour run.

Despite it being above the treeline, there are still plenty of tree runs further down the mountain in both Val d’Isère and Les Boisses, a tiny village in Tignes 1800 which you’ll pass on the way down to Brevieres. If you’re keen to seek out an undiscovered trail, The Hidden Valley, or Vallée Perdue is a memorable descent through trees, caves and between rocks.

Park rats will be glad to know that this ski area is home to two impressive snowparks, with Tignes’ very own park by DC Snowboarding sitting up beside the Grattalu lift and offering a range of different features including rails, boxes and whatever else the dedicated park builders can lodge into the snow. There’s a range of freestyle events running throughout the season, and 2024 saw the return of the Tignes Banked Slalom, a community event aiming to raise awareness for POW (Protect Our Winters) and sponsored by the likes of Dragon Goggles and Stance Socks.

Known for its rich Savoyard cuisine and excellent wines, Tignes is a foodie heaven. You can’t possibly visit without trying some cheese fondue, which is widely available at many restaurants throughout the resort. La Ferme des 3 Capucines is somewhat of a hidden gem and offers a great sharing fondue or raclette, with an authentic farmhouse interior and a welcoming ambience. All the villages are bustling with restaurants and bars, although Le Lac and Val Claret offer the most choice. Don’t let that fact encourage you to overlook Le Lavachet though, as this is home to a delicious Asian fusion restaurant called Kodo (fair warning: it’s small and gets booked up quickly but does do takeaway), a great snack bar called La Cantine and a great pub and pizza takeaway shop. In comparison to other resorts, there are not a lot of options while out on the mountain, but just enough so that it’s not a real issue. Keep in mind though that these tend to be fairly limited and on the pricier side of things, so you might be better off factoring in a lunch break or making the most of being in the land of great bread and preparing a sandwich beforehand.

Just like the skiing, the party scene in Tignes is also world-class. There’s a Folie Douce on the mountain, which only requires a very small amount of skiing to get down from should you feel a bit wavy once you’ve jumped on tables to your heart's content - You just need to safely ski down to the Tommeuses lift and then take the Toviere bubble back into Le Lac. There’s also a Cocoricos après ski bar in Val Claret, known for brilliant live music sessions and a great outdoor terrace. If it’s post-ski sunshine you’re after, Loop Bar terrace is the place to soak it up, and they often have afternoon DJ sets that sometimes transform into rowdy après events that continue long into the night. For those of you who are looking for something even later, Strike nightclub, which used to be a bowling alley, promises a wild and wonderful night beneath strobe lights. For a more relaxed and refined experience with excellent cocktails, there’s the Langley Hotel’s sun-trap terrace, which is situated in the long white Palafour building in the heart of Le Lac.

Families are well catered for in Tignes. There’s husky sledding around the lake and plenty of interactive play areas including the annual igloo or snowmaze that pop up near the giant lakeside Tignes sign. Everyone with a multi-day lift pass also gets access to the Le Lagon wellness centre, which offers a swimming pool, slides, saunas, steam room and jacuzzis. For real-time information about what’s going on, you can download the helpful Tignes app during your stay. Tignes is also well know for the quality of ski schools and ski instructors. Find and book private ski lessons and ski school via our friends at Maison Sport here.

For non-skiers, as well as the wellness centre, there is a climbing wall, indoor skate ramp, cinema and golf simulator. Other snow-based activities include snow tubing, sledging, ice diving, horse riding, snowshoeing, snowmobiling and even the chance to spend the evening in a traditional Mongolian yurt, enjoying fondue and kir wine before sledging beneath the stars.

Historically, most of the accommodation throughout Tignes has been self-catering apartments, but more and more hotels are being added. Notable hotels on offer include the Club Med inclusive resort, the Langley 2100, Le Taos boutique residence and Hotel Village Montana. For a cheaper option, there are a handful of hostels, but the vast choice of apartments on offer means you’ll likely find something suited to your budget.

In terms of what the ‘feel’ of each area is like, the lowest village, Les Brevieres is quiet and family-based with a more traditional wood cabin and forested look. Tignes 1800 is similar, but better connected with intermittent shuttle services. In both of these villages, you won’t find much in terms of nightlife and you’ll need to travel up in a gondola to reach the higher slopes. Le Lavachet is typically where most seasonnaires live and has a smaller, more contained feel than Lac or Val Claret. Depending on where you stay here, you’ll likely have the furthest journey to the chairlift, but there are plenty of bus stops meaning you can catch the shuttle to one of the main lift areas. Le Lac is bigger, and feels like the true ‘heart’ of Tignes as many of the events take place here, and there is a wealth of shops, restaurants and bars. Val Claret is the bustling hub of ski schools, tour operator trips and University-led trips from the UK, with countless restaurants and bars. If being right beside the ski lift is your top priority, we suggest opting for Le Lac or Val Claret.

Describing itself as ‘a natural stadium’ and surrounded by a protected National Park, Tignes takes its commitment to the environment very seriously. It holds both Green Globe and Flocon Vert accreditation and is powered by hydroelectricity from the Chevril Dam below. You’ll also be encouraged to recycle during your stay, and there are bins throughout the resort specifically for your lift pass, which can be reused for other shredders to enjoy after your trip.