The Skiers' Guide to Winter Park

While it may lack the glamor of larger, more famous Colorado resorts, Winter Park is a fantastic resort for families and skiers of all abilities. Its wide-ranging terrain, which includes some of the best skiing in the country for beginners, the legendary bumps and trees of the Mary Jane territory, and breathtaking views from the top of Parsenn Bowl and The Cirque make it a true Colorado classic.

Opened by the city of Denver in 1939 to be a “winter park” for its residents, its relative proximity to the city is masked by spectacular views and reliably high average snowfall. While it’s no longer owned by the city, it’s Colorado’s longest continually operating ski resort and the only one reachable by train; the Winter Park Express carries skiers and snowboarders from Denver’s Union Station right to the main base area of the resort on in-season weekends. Winter Park is on the Ikon Pass with no day restrictions or blackout dates for pass holders.

Winter Park is divided into the territories of Mary Jane, Vasquez Ridge, Eagle Wind, Parsenn Bowl, and The Cirque. The mountain has two base areas: Mary Jane and The Village at Winter Park. While some navigation is required, all territories, runs, and chairs are accessible from either base area.

There’s ample free and paid parking at both base areas, but the Mary Jane parking areas, which include spots that directly abut the ski slopes, fill up first. Be warned, if you don’t arrive early enough to find a parking spot at either base area, you’ll have to park in the town of Winter Park and take a bus to the resort.

Beginners or anyone looking for a mellow time should stay primarily in the Winter Park territory, which is accessed most easily from the main base area, also called The Village at Winter Park. This territory includes Discovery Park, home to Winter Park’s highly-regarded ski school and instructional programs. There are also beginner, green runs in the Mary Jane territory, but beginners should avoid the other territories altogether.

Riders looking for steeper groomed runs will find blue (intermediate) and blue/black (advanced intermediate) options scattered all over the mountain. Every territory, with the exceptions of Eagle Wind and The Cirque, has great intermediate skiing, but check out Parsenn Bowl for the best views and bowl skiing on the mountain. On windy days, Panoramic Express, the chair servicing Parsenn Bowl and The Cirque, may stop running. Vasquez Ridge is a great option if you’re looking for lighter crowds and untouched powder stashes, but the blue runs are shorter and end on a brutal green catwalk.

Advanced and expert skiers should look no further than Mary Jane for everything from quad-burning bump runs, trees, and glades to cliffs and expert chutes. A morning spent on Mary Jane will ensure you’re ready for lunch — whether it’s a chicken tender basket at the base or a sandwich in one of the territory’s hidden huts or treehouses. Follow a local (or your nose), and you may find one.

Super Gauge Express will take you from the Mary Jane base area to Lunch Rock, perched at the top of the territory. From there, you can drop down the front side of the mountain, where most of the famous mogul runs are, or off its shoulder to Panoramic Express for access to Parsenn Bowl, The Cirque, and Eagle Wind; the last two of which feature excellent advanced and expert terrain with a side-country feel. While The Cirque isn’t reliably open, expert skiers flock here when it is. There is no backcountry access from Winter Park.

On a busy day, locals know the best frontside skiing on Mary Jane is still accessible via the Challenger lift; an old school 2-seat chair that, while prone to breakdowns, allows you to skip the long lines of Super Gauge. Ride Derailer, or if you’re comfortable in trees, Riflesight Notch, for a deeper understanding of Mary Jane’s motto, “No Pain, No Jane.”

Winter Park has 7 terrain parks with a mix of large, medium, and small features. All of the parks are located in the Winter Park territory. The Rail Yard is the largest of the 7 and includes an 18-foot superpipe. The resort isn’t known for park skiing, but there’s certainly enough for a fun day or weekend, regardless of your abilities.

Dining options at the base of the mountain are pretty standard for a ski resort. You can sit down for a burger, chicken tenders, or pizza in either base area or hit a cafeteria for grab-and-go, plastic tray options. The Village at Winter Park does have more wide-ranging options than the Mary Jane base area does, with a taco joint, creperie, Starbucks, and a few nicer sit-down spots.

For those looking for a view with their lunch or end-of-day beer, there are a few dining options on the mountain. The Lodge at Sunspot, located at the top of the Winter Park territory, and Lunch Rock, perched on top of the Mary Jane territory, both serve cafeteria-style food with plenty of indoor and outdoor seating, although Lunch Rock can get quite packed during peak lunch hour.

The town of Winter Park, which is just down the valley from the resort, has more dining options. Deno’s Mountain Bistro is the best upscale-casual restaurant in town—the Gorgonzola Fondue is a must. For those looking for something more casual, Hernando’s Pizza Pub is the go-to spot for Colorado-style pizza (yes, it’s a thing) in a lively yet family-friendly environment. They don’t take reservations, and it can get quite busy, so prepare to belly up to the dollar bill-covered bar while you wait for a table.

If you just want a beer and appetizers to pass some time or wait for I-70 traffic to die down, head to The Ditch on 40 for southwestern-inspired nibbles or go all-in on a red or green chile smothered burrito or burger.

For those ambitious enough to arrive in Winter Park in time for breakfast, check out Moon Frog Coffee or The Perk for a caffeine fix and pastry or grab-and-go burrito. The best places for a bigger breakfast in the valley are Wake N’ Bacon or Sharkey’s Eatery in the neighboring town of Fraser.

Winter Park does not have a strong après or nightlife scene. While a casual beer or cocktail is easy to find, don’t expect a glamorous party scene like you’d find in Aspen or Vail.

There are several bars and restaurants at the base areas and on the mountain that promote their après offerings, including The Lodge at Sunspot, which hosts mountaintop après with cocktails, appetizers, and live music on Thursday through Saturday nights. While a gondola ride is required to reach Sunspot from The Village at Winter Park base area, a lift ticket is not (after 4 PM).

A number of bars and restaurants in town have average après scenes. Those looking for a classic ski dive with a lively environment and light food should consider The Ditch, but your ultimate decision may depend on your drink of choice. Beer lovers have plenty of options, but Hideaway Park Brewery and Big Trout Brewing are the local breweries of note. Wine drinkers can sample wines from a vending machine or opt for full pours courtesy of a human at Adventures Decanted. If you prefer something stronger, check out Idlewild Spirits Distillery to taste local whiskey, gin, and vodka crafted with 100% Colorado grain and water.

If you’re in search of live music, head to Devil’s Craft. It’s best as a late-night spot, as it’s usually pretty dark inside.

Winter Park has a reputation for being one of the most family-friendly resorts in Colorado. It has an excellent ski school, ample beginner terrain, and plenty of activities for non-skiers.

Activities for Non-Skiers in Winter Park

Non-skiers who are interested in enjoying lower-barrier-to-entry winter sports will have no problem finding things to do in Winter Park and the Fraser Valley.

Visit the resort for a day of tubing at the Tube Hill, or go at night for tubing under neon lights. Ice skating is available at the Village Pond, in the Village at Winter Park, both during the day and at night. Bring your own skates or rent a pair at Adventure & Supply Co. Scenic snowcat, snowshoe, and snowmobiling tours are also available for booking at the resort.

Many of the same activities, as well as a few others, are available in the town of Winter Park and elsewhere in the Fraser Valley. Soak in the 100% natural mineral water of Hot Sulpher Springs, go for a day or nighttime sleigh ride, or experience the unique thrill of dogsledding. Cross-country, or Nordic, skiers will love Devil’s Thumb Ranch; one of the premiere Nordic centers in North America.

If you’re more of an indoors type or just want a break from winter weather, visit The Foundry Cinema and Bowl for a movie, game of bowling, and arcade games.

Visitors to Winter Park have plenty of well-priced accommodation options. Of course, staying at the resort allows for the quickest commute to the lifts, but the majority of hotels and rental properties are in the other towns in the valley. Rentals and hotels in Winter Park and especially Fraser, Tabernash, and Granby are great bargains compared to other ski areas in Colorado, but you’ll have to drive a bit to really save money. For those not planning on bringing a car, the town of Winter Park operates a bus network called The Lift that will take you to The Village at Winter Park base area and as far up the valley as Granby.

The town of Winter Park is only about a 5-minute drive from the resort, although it’s important to note you can’t walk between the two. It’s the liveliest town in the valley during ski season and has multiple hotels and countless rental properties. Check out Gravity Haus for a very cool hotel in a great location with excellent amenities and room options for travelers of all budgets.

Just beyond Winter Park is the town of Fraser. While it’s only a 10-minute drive from the resort, Fraser is a bit smaller than Winter Park, and although it’s shorter on hotels, it still has plenty of rental properties and a handful of funky cafes, restaurants, bars, and breweries.

Bargain hunters should start their searches further up the valley in the towns of Tabernash and Granby. Tabernash is the smallest town in the valley and is a 15-minute drive from the resort, while Granby is the largest but is about 30 minutes from the resort by car.

Winter Park has a solid reputation for sustainability. As a member of the National Ski Areas Association’s Sustainable Slopes program, it has committed to incorporating sustainability into all aspects of its resort and advocating for climate protection. It also partners with multiple organizations championing sustainable practices and conservation, such as Protect Our Winters (POW), the National Forest Foundation Alliance, and the Headwaters Trail.

Pros

• Excellent variety of terrain, including first-class moguls and trees
• Great mountain for beginners
• Family-friendly
• Reliable snow
• Relatively affordable accommodations and dining
• Easily accessible from Denver via car or train
• Ikon Pass holders have unlimited access with no blackout dates

Cons

• Poor après scene and average dining options
• Proximity to Denver and inclusion on the Ikon Pass means it can get crowded
• Have to park in town and take a bus to the resort if base area parking fills up
• The Village at Winter Park feels highly commercialized and corporate