The Skiers' Guide to Steamboat

Close your eyes and imagine what skiing in Colorado should be like. If you pictured yourself floating through aspen glades in deep powder above a mountain valley dotted with ranches, followed by a few lively rounds of drinks at an on-mountain après bar and an excellent dinner in an authentic western mountain town, you were imagining an experience pretty close to the reality of visiting Steamboat.

Located in Steamboat Springs, in northwest Colorado, Steamboat is one of the largest resorts in the state. It features 3,741 skiable acres and 3,668 feet of vertical drop. Blessed with more than just size, however, the resort also receives an average of 313 annual inches of snowfall, much of it in the form of dry powder, which the resort has dubbed “champagne powder.”

While it’s more isolated than most Colorado resorts, that means it sees very few day-trippers from Denver. As a result, the town of Steamboat Springs feels like a self-sustaining, western ranching town that just so happens to have world-class skiing. With the quality of the skiing and the town’s authenticity and charm, it’s no surprise that Steamboat Springs, also known as “SkiTown USA”, is home to over 100 winter Olympians—more than any other town in the United States.

Holders of full Ikon Passes have unlimited access to Steamboat with no blackout dates. Those with Ikon Base Plus and Base Passes get 5 days with blackout dates. Ikon Session Passes grant between 2 and 4 days, depending upon how many days you purchase with your pass, with blackout dates.

Despite its reputation for excellent tree skiing, Steamboat is one of Colorado’s most family friendly mountains. Beginners will enjoy Steamboat’s wide, gentle green and blue runs, which are sprinkled more or less all over the mountain. The only chairs that beginners will want to avoid are on the looker’s left (skier’s right) end of the mountain under Mt. Werner. The best beginner’s terrain is on the opposite end of the mountain, so you almost certainly won’t find yourself there by accident.

True beginners and those who want to get their legs under them will find multiple long, mellow bunny hills at the bottom of the mountain, in the Greenhorn Ranch Learning Center, accessible from the base area via the Wild Blue Gondola.

When you’re ready to graduate from bunny hills, just ride the Wild Blue Gondola past Greenhorn Ranch, all the way to the top of Sunshine Peak. Don’t let the elevation gain scare you—the best beginner terrain at Steamboat is actually at the top of the mountain. From here, ride laps of Sundial and Tomahawk down to the Sunshine Express chair, or take Sundial to Rendezvous Way to Broadway for a ride back to the top of Sunshine Peak via the Sundown Express chair. Regardless of which route you decide to take, you’ll be treated to magnificent views of the Yampa Valley.

Almost 40% of Steamboat’s terrain has been designated blue (intermediate), making it a perfect destination for intermediate skiers. While blue runs can be found nearly all over the mountain, some of the best can be found intermingled with the beginner runs on Sunshine Peak. An entire day can be spent riding laps of the Sunshine Express chair, with High Noon and Quickdraw being great options for those looking for long, wide, groomers. Tomahawk, while a beginner run, grants access to some short, fun blue runs on the resort’s shoulder like Ramrod and Baby Powder. When the frontside of Sunshine Peak gets old, the back side has multiple intermediate runs as well, or simply ski over to Storm Peak via Traverse.

Storm Peak is home to some wonderful intermediate runs; Buddy’s Run and Rainbow being two of the best. An excellent top-to-bottom blue descent of the mountain can be orchestrated from the top of Storm Peak via Buddy’s Run, Calf Roper, Rainbow, Tower, and finally Vagabond, which is one of the longest blue runs on the mountain and features multiple rolling pitches.

Steamboat is known for its many great tree runs, some of which feature well-spaced aspen trees and a relatively gentle pitch. For this reason, it’s a great mountain for intermediate and advanced skiers who are interested in learning to ski trees. Forgiving tree runs include Pup, Buckshot, and Ramrod, located on the side of Sunshine Peak, and in Morningside Park, on the back side of the mountain beneath Mt. Werner. Additionally, Steamboat’s run classification system features a blue-black “More Difficult” classification that makes it easier to progress from skiing intermediate to advanced runs.

Advanced skiers will find plenty of challenging terrain to keep them entertained, especially if they enjoy glades and powder. Under Sunshine Peak, Closets and Shadows cover a huge stand of trees well-known for being one of the best areas for tree skiing in the state, particularly on powder days. Wake Up Call, on the back side, skis like a bowl and features some really fun glades as well. You’ll need to take the old-school Bar-UE chair to access this area from the front of the mountain, or the Morningside chair to get there from the back side. Three O’Clock, Shadow Liftline, and Kuu’s Cruise are great options for those looking for steep, uncrowded, advanced runs without trees.

While Steamboat’s reputation with high-level expert skiers is that it’s a “flat” mountain lacking sufficient extreme terrain, the recent expansion of the resort’s boundaries to include the Mahogany Ridge and Fish Creek Canyon areas, which had been skied by well-informed experts for years, has improved Steamboat's offerings in this area tremendously. To ski or ride these areas, which feature more fantastic glade skiing, cliffs, and other natural features, you’ll need to navigate to the Mahogany Ridge Express chair, then take Edge of the World down from there. There are 6 access gates to Mahogany Ridge and Fish Creek Canyon along the Edge of the World run. Be prepared for a 45-minute hike back to the Mahogany Ridge Express chair when you get to the bottom. Don’t worry, the hike is pretty mild, especially for skiers.

The original extreme terrain at Steamboat is located under Mt. Werner, which is all the way on the looker’s left or skier’s right end of the mountain. Here you’ll find steep, exhilarating chutes and powdery glades. You really can’t go wrong, but Chute 1 and Christmas Tree Bowl never disappoint. You’ll need to hike to everything past Christmas Tree Bowl, including No Names, which is as difficult a run as Steamboat’s upper mountain has to offer.

Terrain parks are located on the lower front side of the mountain. Lil’ Rodeo is the smallest of the 3, with small and medium features, followed by Rabbit Ears, also featuring small and medium jumps, rails, boxes, and jibs. Those ready for the big stuff should head to Mavericks. With jumps up to 70 feet, Mavericks is the biggest park on the mountain and includes a halfpipe.

Now that Mahogany Ridge and Fish Creek Canyon have been absorbed by the resort, there is no backcountry accessible from Steamboat. However, there are some excellent areas for backcountry skiing in the Steamboat Springs area including Buffalo Pass and Rabbit Ears Pass. Check out Steamboat Powdercats for snowcat skiing on Buffalo Pass, which is home to the deepest annual snowpack in Colorado.

Unlike many Colorado ski towns, Steamboat Springs predates the Steamboat ski resort, and therefore a lot of the best dining options are located off the resort. There are still some really solid restaurants on-mountain and in the base area, however.

On-mountain dining options include the Oasis Sundeck for lunch, and Hazie’s for dinner, both of which offer huge views of the Yampa Valley from Thunderhead Lodge, which is accessible via the Steamboat Gondola. Four Points and Rendezvous Lodges offer standard on-mountain, food court-style lunches.

At the base area, White Rabbit Tavern and Truffle Pig offer very good new American food, and The Paramount has solid breakfast and lunch options that aren’t ridiculously overpriced, but expect to pay resort prices no matter where you go. For groups with picky eaters, The Range Food & Drink Hall may be a good choice. It has 4 booths featuring 4 different cuisines and lots of indoor and outdoor seating.

The town of Steamboat, which is just down the hill from the resort, has plenty of dining options. Laundry Kitchen & Cocktails is one of the best, and probably most popular restaurants in town. The food isn’t cheap, but the atmosphere is great and the menu, dotted with their cured-in-house meats and cheeses, has something for just about everyone (vegans and vegetarians might struggle). Aurum and Table 79 can be filed in the same category as Laundry in terms of budget and ambience. The new American-style food at both, which share owners, highlights local, seasonal ingredients.

For a warm bowl of pasta and a glass of wine, look no further than Mambo. Bésame, Mambo’s sister restaurant, serves killer latin food, including a huge tapas menu that’s 30% off during happy hour.

For those eating on a budget or looking for something more laid back, check out Back Door Grill for burgers, Salt & Lime for rooftop tacos and margaritas, or Skull Creek Greek for super casual greek food.

Creekside Café and Grill, which is directly next door to, and shares ownership with Laundry, has arguably the best brunch in town, but expect to wait. Yampa Valley Kitchen and Freshies are other great options. For a quick bite and a coffee on the way to the mountain, Causeway Coffee House is worth a stop.

Steamboat has a lively and approachable après scene. It isn’t as glitzy as, say, Aspen's après, but what it lacks in Moncler it makes up for in fringe. Après begins on the mountain, at ski-up bars like T-Bar, Los Locos, and Slopeside Grill, and migrates to town in the evening.

The single best spot on the mountain for mid- or end-of-day drinks with the party crowd is T-Bar. While there’s some seating inside, the majority is outside—grab a bar stool or table if you’re lucky enough to find one open, but you’ll most likely find yourself sitting in the snow or standing around a stump playing a game of nails (it’s a simple game that would probably make your mother very nervous).

If eating is your priority, Los Locos and Slopeside Grill are just down the hill from T-Bar. They’re a bit more mellow, but still feature large patios and frequent live music.

If you’ve made it to town, head to Sunpie’s Bistro for drinks at an eccentric local bar with a riverfront patio and a loose New Orleans-meets-ski town vibe. Check out Old Town Pub for a classic wild-west saloon-style bar that often features live music. O’Neils Tavern & Grill is an Irish pub that can be fun as well.

Schmiggity’s is the late night spot for dancing and live music. They have live acts nearly every night during ski season.

Steamboat is an extremely family-friendly resort. The mountain is laid out well for families, and kids 12 and under even ski free with a parent or grandparent. Additionally, the town of Steamboat Springs offers plenty of non-skiing and family friendly activities.

Activities for Non-Skiers

Non-skiers who still want to experience the outdoors will have no challenge finding ways to connect with nature. Steamboat Springs has many of the same offerings as other Colorado ski towns—dog sledding, sleigh rides, tubing, ice skating, scenic gondola rides, and snowshoeing—but one option more unique to the area is right in the town’s name.

Steamboat Springs is home to some of the best natural hot springs in the state. The main choice you’ll need to make is between convenience and natural charm. If you fall into the category favoring convenience and modern amenities, then Old Town Hot Springs is for you. It’s located in town and is complete with waterfalls, a climbing wall, and waterslides. Strawberry Hot Springs is the more natural of the two options. Sitting about 20 minutes outside of town, this complex is the zen, rustic, and, after dark, less-clothed hot spring. If you’re looking for a way to relax your bones while taking in the fresh mountain air, Strawberry Hot Springs is for you. They only take cash, however, so make sure you bring some with you for admission.

Shoppers will find plenty of boutiques, galleries, and gift shops in downtown Steamboat Springs. No visit is complete, however, without stopping into F.M. Light and Sons. The store sells authentic western clothing, cowboy hats, boots, and other ranch accessories, and it’s been owned by 5 generations of the same family since it opened in 1905.

Visitors to Steamboat either stay at the resort or in town. The resort is only a 5 minute drive from downtown Steamboat Springs, so there isn’t a big difference in terms of access or even price between the two, but staying in town is generally a bit cheaper. The biggest question you’ll need to answer is whether you want to stay in a hotel or rental property. There are plenty of both.

If you’re looking to save money, staying in a rental property in a small neighboring town could help you achieve that, but considering the range of accommodation options in Steamboat Springs, there’s probably something that you can afford in town.

Steamboat doesn’t have a strong reputation for environmental protection or sustainability. While they do have partnerships with some local environmental organizations, the resort’s website is extremely vague and brief when it comes to specific commitments and accomplishments.

Pros

• Great snow quality
• World-class tree skiing
• Excellent intermediate terrain
• Authentic western ski town
• Lively après scene
• Plentiful dining and accommodation options
• Family friendly
• Lots to do for non-skiers

Cons

• Relatively low elevation means snow melts quickly
• Limited advanced and expert terrain, especially if you don’t prefer tree skiing
• Dining and accommodations can be pricey
• Subpar reputation for sustainability
• Remote location