The Skiers' Guide to Whitewater Ski Resort

Nestled in the Selkirk Mountains of British Columbia, Whitewater is often referred to as the areas best kept secret. Deemed ‘one of the best powder mountains on the continent’ by Powder Magazine, the modest 4 chairlift resort boasts some of the best, barely ridden, terrain in the world. As one of the stops on the infamous Powder Highway, Whitewater averages 40ft of snowfall each year making their 1300 acres of inbound terrain a playground for powder seekers. Whilst the inbound terrain, made up of 61% expert runs, is any keen skier's dream, it’s the almost 2000 acres of easily accessible backcountry that makes the resort truly special. Whitewater is a ‘locals hill’ through and through, you’ll be made to feel welcome and will be pulled into a chairlift chat or two, whether you like it or not!

If steep and deep is your thing, then you’ll fall in love with what Whitewater has to offer. Composed mostly of expert runs, this resort is known for its expanses of gladed terrain, chutes, cliffs and bowls. With all inbound terrain avalanche controlled, it’s a safe haven (aside from the usual risks) for endless deep powder skiing.

Whitewater has 82 runs across three faces, opening up unique and varied terrain with every run. This resort is a freeriders dream with slackcountry pillow fields and bowls just a traverse or bootpack away. The Trash Traverse is a lengthy but rewarding crossing, granting you access to dreamscape terrain as featured in Arthur Longo’s ski film ‘Canadian Vacation’.

The backcountry access from Whitewater is what makes the resort truly unique. With the addition of their fourth chairlift, ‘Raven’, in the 23/24 winter season, the lift-accessible terrain is more reachable than ever. It’s like stepping into a touring wonderland. A trip up the Raven chair and a short tour up Ymir peak opens up the whole west facing bowl which channels right back into the main resort area. It must be noted that anything out of the ski area boundary is not avalanche controlled or patrolled by Whitewater, be sure you have the appropriate equipment and education, and always ski with a buddy!

If you’re into challenging skiing and moguls then Whitewater is perfect for you. Many of their runs remain ungroomed, forming bumps that’ll have your legs shaking after a top to bottom lap on the Glory chairlift. Your body will be thankful for the small day lodge at the bottom of the Glory chairlift providing a warm fire and something warm (or cold!) to drink.

As for all you beginner and intermediate skiers out there, you may be feeling a little put off by the mention of ‘steep’ and ‘cliffs’. But don’t fear, Whitewater is home to 9 Green runs and 29 Blue runs (challenging blues, I’d note), and an affordable ski school that can help you get the most out of the mountain whatever your ability. It’s certainly not a resort that’s ‘made’ for beginners but if you’re up for the challenge Whitewater will push you and transform you into a fearless rider. Once you’ve mastered this ski hill, every other resort will feel like a piece of cake. I promise!

Situated hours away from any international airport, Whitewater is the road less traveled, which any keen skier will know means fresh tracks all day long. Although, be aware that there’s an unwritten 20cm rule that locals hold dear to their hearts. If there’s 20 cms of fresh snowfall, expect local businesses to be shut and kids to be skipping school to shred the coldsmoke powder. So, while most days at the hill you’ll be met with short lift queues, know that anything over 20 cms could result in a slightly longer wait.

Whitewater is well loved amongst serious riders, not only for the skiing it offers, but also for the proximity to world class heli-skiing and cat-skiing operations. Infamous lodges like Rettalack, Baldface, Stellar Heliskiing are once in a lifetime destinations for many keen backcountry riders and can be found just around the corner from Whitewater.

I believe that the true testament to how gnarly the riding is at Whitewater comes in the form of the Whitewater Freeride Team. Producing pro-skiers and World Tour athletes such as Sam Kuch and Trace Cook, these Kootenay kids know how to shred. You’ll spot them skiing under the lift line, ripping the huge terrain like it’s nothing and sending big tricks off the cattrack. It brings an energy to the ski hill and is inspiring to watch such high-level athletes.

There’s no WiFi or cell service in the resort, something that is loved by some and hated by others, but you can’t deny that it makes for a unique ‘unplugged’ experience while riding at Whitewater. This ski hill is all about skiing and community. A true, no frills resort.

Whitewater doesn't have a traditional resort village but its humble day lodge is home to some of the best ski resort food in North America. It’ll exceed your expectations of typical ski hill food, promising to serve fresh, original food whilst remaining at a reasonable price point.

The food is so beloved by locals and tourists alike that the original chef at Whitewater, Shelley Adams, created a series of cookbooks which have sold over 250,000 copies to date. You’ll find the cookbook on everyone's bookshelf in the surrounding area.

With few options in the way of restaurants up at the ski hill, you’ll want to venture to the town of Nelson if you're looking for further eating out options. Nelson is a 20 minute drive from Whitewater and is home to over 50 unique bars and restaurants offering a wide variety of good quality cuisine. Often referred to as a ‘hidden gem’, Nelson is a vibrant town with music, arts and heritage architecture everywhere you look. People come to Nelson for the skiing, and stay for the town.

The on-hill après scene is almost non-existent at Whitewater, you can stop by Coal Oil Johnny’s pub in the day lodge for a relaxed, cozy post-ski drink, but don’t expect any European-style après. But don’t worry après lovers, the nearby town of Nelson offers a vibrant music scene and is scattered with unique bars and music venues. Live music can be found all through the week with bars such as The Royal setting precedence with at least two live acts a week.

In terms of skiing, Whitewater isn’t taking the award for ‘most family friendly resort’ any time soon. Rather than a magic carpet, the bunny slope uses a hummer tow which can be a little difficult to master for the little ones. There is however a two-person chairlift which accesses the majority of the beginner runs, and it generally travels at a slower speed making the dreaded dismount a less daunting feat.

What Whitewater lacks in beginner-friendly terrain, it makes up for in family friendly events and atmosphere. The day lodge is always filled with families and has a small play area to keep the tiny shedders entertained when they’re not on the snow. Whitewater is a through and through a locals hill and cares about catering for families and offers a calendar filled with events for kids and families to enjoy.

Whitewater itself doesn’t offer much in the way of ‘extracurricular’ activities, aside from the great food which could be considered entertainment in itself! That being said, Whitewater is in close proximity to many non-skiing activities. The town of Nelson offers something for everyone, watch the Nelson Leafs hockey team play for a true Canadian experience, journey down the road to Ainsworth Hot Springs for a refreshing soak, or stop by their newly renovated cinema to shelter from the snow. Nelson's historic Baker street is ladened with shops filled with local artisan goods, thrift stores, cafes and bars, which will be sure to keep you entertained when your body inevitably needs a rest from skiing.

Opened in 2023, the Hummingbird Lodge is Whitewaters only on-hill accommodation. The lodge features a singular 2-bedroom suite, so for those of you who want to be at the front of the queue for first lifts, this exclusive spot is just the ticket.

Most people visiting Whitewater will opt to stay in the town of Nelson which sits an easy 20 minute drive from the resort itself. For those of you who are used to the ski-in-ski-out luxuries of Europe this may seem like a long journey to the snow, but once you’ve seen what Nelson has to offer you won’t think twice about the drive. There’s a variety of accommodation in Nelson at all different price points, from hostels to waterfront hotels, so you’ll be sure to find something that suits you. Whitewater provides a shuttle service from Nelson to the ski hill but unfortunately, it isn’t free. So if you’re bringing your own vehicle ensure they’re fitted with winter tires or bring snow chains, when appropriate, as the winding mountain road is often left semi-uncleared.

Pros Unbeatable terrain for the expert skier, think steep and deep. Great, fresh food at the day lodge (cookbook worthy!). 2000 acres of easily accessible backcountry. Produces world class athletes. Proximity to a number of other ski resorts, heli-skiing and cat skiing.

Cons Situated far from any international airports (nearest being Kelowna, 170km away). There’s no village up at the resort (or après). Not a go-to beginners hill (I’d suggest checking out nearby RED Mountain). Doesn’t offer a free resort shuttle. The terrain park is only built for a small portion of the season.