The Skiers' Guide to Lech Zürs am Arlberg

Arlberg is Austria’s largest connected ski area and fifth largest in the world - the Lech Zürs region offers an extensive skiable domain and is dominated by upmarket, luxury hotels. While Lech is the larger and prettier of the two (the villages sit just over 5km apart,) they both have a bustling resort feel and are extensively linked to each other, with gondolas to the other ski areas of Warth-Shröken and St.Anton. Known as the ‘Cradle of the Austrian Alps,’ Arlberg is not a mountain but a pass that historically connected important trade destinations. Surrounded entirely by stunning scenery, the Arlberg is dominated by the mountains Valluga and Trittkopf which provide a glorious backdrop for your ski break.

Both villages have an extensive history, starting out as untouched agricultural havens before being discovered by pioneers of skiing. The first ski school in Lech was founded in 1925, when students had to climb the mountain on foot before learning on raw, ungroomed slopes. It wasn’t until 1939 that the first lift was opened.

Catering to an eyebrow-raising level of clientele, this winter-sports mecca is a playground for everyone from the Dutch royal family to Russian Oligarchs. While this does mean a higher price point than most other resorts, the flip side of that means an exemplary level of service, impressive après scene and, as one of our Snomad community members puts it, “less Jerry’s and idiots on the slopes” - their words, not ours….

The fifth largest ski area in the world, Alberg caters to all riders. The Arlberg Card (which covers Lech, Zürs, Stuben, St. Christoph and St. Anton) grants access to 340km of ski runs between the altitudes of 1300m and 2800m. In short, riders of all abilities will have their needs met here.

With such a large ski area, you can guarantee a decent vertical drop and maximum run length. Lech Zürs am Arlberg boasts a 1507m vertical drop and a 9km long run - if you’re really keen on testing those quads, you can complete the Run of Fame, an 85km long ski circuit that takes you through the entire Arlberg resort. You can complete it by starting from almost anywhere, but there are two routes: Southern, from St. Anton/Rendl in the direction of Warth, or Northern, from Warth to St.Anton.

If you’d prefer to stay local, you can make the most of 141 runs serviced by 88 high-spec lifts. The majority of runs here are actually beginner level, with almost as many intermediate, which makes it a safe choice for a mixed or novice group. Intermediates definitely shouldn’t miss the red piste 144 or ‘Muggengrat-Tali’ which takes you alongside the rocks before opening up into a cruisey boulevard - snowboarders beware though, you’ll need to keep your speed for the long and gentle outro.

While there are few challenges on the piste for advanced and expert skiers, the off-piste runs down to Lech from the Trittkopf is widely considered the area’s nicest pow stash. For park rats, the Snowpark at Schlegelkopfbahn lift has a few fun lines with numerous obstacles, rails and a varied kicker line for those who aren’t afraid to send it.

Both villages of Lech and Zürs are a foodie’s haven - here you’ll find the world’s highest density per capita of award winning restaurants. On the slopes, there’s a large number of the more informal ‘huttes’ such as Balmalp, located at the Zugerbergbahn mountain station which is known for its hearty lunch fare and beautiful terrace, lined with magnums of champagne. At the Schlegelkopf lift, the eponymous mountain restaurant is famed for an appetising selection of international dishes (we’re talking everything from sushi to steak) and it even has rooms dedicated to both Johnnie Walker Whisky and Veuve Clicquot Champagne. By now, you’ve probably realised that champagne is a regular feature of any trip to Lech Zürs.

When it comes to your evening meal, Lech is essentially wall-to-wall gourmand offerings. For a fine dining experience of international cuisine, Chef’s Table in the Rote Wand Hotel is overseen by the skilled chef Julian Steiger, whose previous haunts include Copenhagen’s Geranium and New York’s Eleven Madison Park. For a more budget-friendly option, Italian restaurant Don Enzo has an extensive menu with prices that are widely considered very reasonable ‘for Lech.’

In Zürs, the Walserstube Arlberghaus restaurant is a good middle-ground option, with an authentic Austrian feel, friendly staff and great pizzas.

Austria is the epicentre of après ski, and it is widely known for doing it better than anywhere else in the world. While Lech Zürs isn’t quite as full on as neighbouring St. Anton, it does offer a fun, party atmosphere that is perhaps a little bit more elevated. Each of the mountain huts transform from quaint lunch spots to slopeside parties, where DJ sets accompany the sound of popping champagne bottles.

In the centre of Lech, Krone is the place to be for après, with a huge terrace that often gets crowded during peak weeks. In total, there are 9 bars in Lech and 7 in Zürs so while it’s not exactly party central, you can definitely seek out your kind of après experience.

While there isn’t a great deal of off-mountain entertainment in either villages, you can enjoy the usual roster of snowshoeing, horse-drawn sleigh rides, tandem flights, tobogganing and ice skating.

For a slower, more serene pace during your downtime, there’s a whole host of luxurious spa areas in the many different luxury hotels. Hotel Arlberg’s design-led spa is a favourite, complete with heated outdoor pool, Finnish sauna and Horizontal Shower by Dornbracht.

The range of accommodation is varied. You could choose the €10,000 per night Spa Chalet Mimi or opt instead for the Lech Hostel at around €45 for a single room with shared bathroom facilities. Luxurious hotel options include Severin’s Alpine Retreat and Hotel Auriga, and decent self-catering options include Appartements Spullersee and Haus Braunarl - but both of those will mean you need to take a short bus ride to the centre.

Lech Zürs has a commitment to ensuring sustainability throughout the resort, limiting guest beds to 10,000 and imposing strict building regulations to preserve the landscape. Resort-wide heating is supplied by biomass heating plants and the ski bus fleet is being upgraded to electric. The lifts, snowmaking equipment and mountain restaurants throughout the resort are also completely powered by 100% renewable energy thanks to Austrian hydropower.

Pros

• A huge ski area
• Great off-piste opportunities
• Reputation for great, luxurious service and hospitality

Cons

• Not that many après bars
• A small number of advanced runs when compared with beginner / intermediate
• Expensive