There was no queue for the lifts during the week (Tuesday - Friday), we were shocked on Saturday that we had to wait nearly 2 hours for the gondola to go up. Once youre on the mountain, its so big and vast that you dont feel the crowds, it just took a while for the gondola to get up.
Not much in the way of apres ski but there are some bars and a fun club in the town.
Snow was amazing, views were insane, and skiing itself was incredible.